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Repair & Restoration

Rug Repair & Restoration in Savannah

Torn edges, missing fringe, moth grazing along the side that lives against the wall of a shut-up room, a corner the puppy decided was a chew toy, or a rug that spent a night in creek water. Most of it is fixable by hand.

Hand Work

Rebuilt, Not Covered Over

A patch hides damage. A repair removes it. The rug is reassembled in the sequence the weaver used — foundation, then knots at the original density, in wool matched to the dye lot — so the mended ground flexes, soils and wears at the rate of the field around it. Done properly, the place has to be pointed out before anyone sees it.

There is no fast version. Reweaving is measured across square inches, and the only instrument that does it well is a hand at a loom. What that buys is a far longer list of survivable damage than most owners expect: a great many rugs arrive rolled around a hole and leave whole.

Every job opens with a free assessment and an honest verdict. Where the repair would cost out of proportion to the rug, that is what you are told, and the work is declined rather than taken.

Matched wool being knotted back into an oriental rug at the repair bench
Wool matched to the dye lot, tied back down into a rebuilt cotton foundation.
What We Fix

The Work We Do on Chatham and Bryan Rugs

A fringe tidied in an afternoon at one end; a foot of vanished border rebuilt at the other.

Fringe Repair & Replacement

Fringe is the warp of the rug coming out of the end, not a trim sewn on afterward, so a fringe going to pieces means the rug is opening up. The ends are locked off, lost warps replaced, and the fringe re-knotted or renewed to the original pattern.

Edge Binding & Serging

The cord down each side of a rug takes the vacuum, the chair legs and the doorway traffic. When one parts, the knots along that line lose their anchor and start working loose. That edge is rewrapped by hand in wool matched into the border.

Reweaving & Hole Repair

Burns, tears and ground worn clean through are rebuilt a knot at a time. Structure comes back before surface, and the new pile is matched on fiber, color and knot count to the field either side of it.

Moth Damage

Larvae feed on the underside of the pile, so bare foundation showing means the problem has been running for a while. The colony is dealt with first and the grazed ground rewoven after. Two versions turn up again and again here: a rug in a room of a subdivided Victorian District house that nobody opens, and a rug rolled up in a garage. Dark, still and untrodden is precisely the condition they want.

Pet Damage

Corners taken off by teeth, sides opened by claws, and dye destroyed from below by urine. Nothing is repaired until the rug has been decontaminated; the lost structure is then rebuilt and the color put back where the original dye no longer exists.

Color & Dye Correction

Tannin lines drawn up out of a damp heart-pine floor, brown tide marks left where blackwater stood, bleach spots, and dye that traveled during a soaking or a rough clean. So long as there is strength left in the fiber below, the color goes back into it by hand.

Resizing & Reshaping

Rugs shortened at some point to fit a room, and rugs pulled back to square after years out of shape. A cut edge is finished so the new size looks like a decision rather than an accident — and in a town of narrow townhouse parlors and odd-shaped garden-level rooms, very few rugs were bought to fit.

Backing & Foundation Repair

Hand-tufted rugs whose latex has crumbled, antique cotton warps that snap rather than bend, and rugs standing in waves because the structure beneath them has failed. The skeleton is settled before a single cosmetic question is raised.

Rug Pads & Prevention

A large share of this list would never have been written over a decent pad. Pads are cut to the rug and chosen to breathe, and nowhere does that matter more than on original heart pine over a garden level or a shallow crawl: a solid rubber pad seals the moisture coming up from below and holds it against the rug and the boards together for months at a time.

Local Conditions

What Savannah Air Does to a Rug’s Foundation

Repair work does not arrive at random here. Savannah spends 230 days a year at or above 75% relative humidity — the level usually quoted as where mold can get started on wool and cotton given enough time — and the longest unbroken run in the five-year record is 67 days. For roughly 10 weeks at a stretch, the cotton foundation under the pile is never offered a chance to dry, and that single fact decides most of what comes through the door.

230
Days a year at or above 75% relative humidity
67
Longest unbroken damp run, in days
8
Nights a year at or below freezing
54.3
Inches of rain a year

A rug with no dry season

230 damp days a year is 62.9% of the calendar, and they do not arrive evenly spaced — the longest single run in the record is 67 days, against a mean relative humidity of 76.2%.

A rug does not care about the yearly figure; it responds to how long it is held above the threshold without relief, because mold is a function of time at humidity rather than of an average.

Wool will carry close to a third of its own weight in water before it feels wet, so by the time a Savannah rug feels damp the cotton foundation has been loaded for a long while.

What we see as a result is foundation work rather than cosmetic work: warps rebuilt before any pile goes back in.

Where the house puts the rug

Isle of Hope, Skidaway Island and Tybee Island sit on or near the water, which raises the local moisture load above what a regional figure implies.

Ground water close to the surface keeps the soil under a floor wet through the dry parts of the year, so the 135 days a year when the air is below the mold threshold do less recovering than they look like they should.

In Whitemarsh Island, Richmond Hill and Pooler the rugs are mostly on slab, which behaves nothing like a joisted floor.

A slab is in direct contact with ground moisture and, in older construction, often has no vapor barrier under it; a rug laid straight onto one is being wetted from below continuously rather than seasonally, and the cotton foundation is the part in contact with it.

The oldest housing on the collection route goes back to the 1870s, and construction of that age was not built to keep ground moisture out of the rooms above it — which is worth remembering before blaming a rug's condition on the rug.

What that actually sends in for repair

Foundation loss, not surface wear

Cellulose held damp loses strength, and 67 unbroken days above 75% is long enough for it to matter.

A foundation going that way gives no cosmetic warning, so the test is mechanical: fold a corner and see whether it flexes or crackles, and pull gently on a fringe tassel to see whether it is still anchored in anything.

Fringe, because fringe is the foundation

Fringe is the warp ends of the rug, not a trim, so 230 days a year of damp working on cotton warps shows up there before it shows up anywhere else.

Once the ends let go the rug starts unravelling from the edge inward, which is why a fringe that has begun to shed is worth dealing with while it is still a fringe job.

Dyes that moved before we saw the rug

162 days a year reach 80% relative humidity, where a wet rug stays wet, and an unstable dye that is kept wet and warm will travel.

Most of what looks like a stain on an old rug is dye that migrated during an earlier soaking, and it is corrected by hand where the fiber is still sound rather than by washing harder.

Figures above are from the ERA5 reanalysis record for the five years from 2021 through 2025, taken at the center of the the Coastal Empire service area. If what you are seeing on your rug matches any of this, send photographs and we will tell you which of these it is.

Wet Rug Service

Tide, River Water and Rugs Off a Wet Garden Level

A spring tide across a low island yard under a blue sky, the Ogeechee up after three days of rain, a walled courtyard whose drain could not take a summer downpour, or a supply line letting go on a garden-level floor. From that point the rug is running out of time.

Two days, and the calendar will not help you

Wool takes a soaking well. Being left in one finishes it. Mold needs a warm room and a saturated foundation and it is established in roughly two days, after which nothing applied to the surface reaches it. There are eight nights a year at freezing here, which is just enough winter to make people think the year resets and nowhere near enough to dry a foundation out: 230 days a year sit above the humidity where mold can start, in one run of 67 without a break. Meanwhile unstable dyes begin to travel, cotton warps soften, and whatever the water carried in is curing.

What the water was changes the work. Tidal water is brackish and arrives with creek silt and organic matter in it, and the salt it leaves behind keeps pulling moisture back into the fiber long after the pile feels dry to a hand. Blackwater off the Ogeechee is tannin-stained and draws a brown line rather than a clean one, which makes it a color problem sitting on top of a contamination problem. Neither leaves without being dissolved in a bath. A fan aimed at the rug does the reverse: a dry face, everything else sealed beneath it, and about three weeks before it becomes obvious.

Worth doing before anyone arrives

  • Lift it clear of the wet floor and out from under the furniture. Wooden legs bleed stain into damp pile within hours, and old boards under a wet rug begin to cup.
  • Resist rolling it tight into plastic. Sealed and warm is an incubator; loose and open to moving air is much better.
  • Photograph it soaked and exactly where it lies, before anything at all is shifted. That is the record the carrier asks for.
  • Do not hose the brackish water off and leave it lying in the lane. A partial rinse fixes what stays behind and complicates the wash that has to follow.
  • Whatever you do, do not move it down to a garden level or a garage for safekeeping. That is the dampest air in the building.

The order it goes through

  • Collected out of turn. A soaked rug goes in front of the routine washing wherever the route can reach it.
  • Water identified. Clean supply water, waste water and tidal or river flooding are three unrelated problems, and the answer sets everything after it.
  • Extraction, then a full flush. Silt, salt and contamination leave by way of the foundation instead of being shut in behind a dried face.
  • Antimicrobial. Carried over every inch of the rug, both sides, while it is still open and ahead of any drying.
  • Flat drying, metered. Filtered air moving across it, and the moisture meter read down to a steady number before anything is wrapped.
  • Bleed and tide lines corrected. Colors that traveled while the rug was saturated, and the brown lines tannin water leaves, drawn back as far as the fiber permits.
  • Structure rebuilt. With the rug dry and stable again, rotted foundation and lost pile are rewoven back into it.
  • Claim paperwork. A photographic record throughout, plus a written condition report ready for your carrier.
A rug photographed flat after water-damage recovery, field color brought back through the pile
How It Works

From the First Message to the Rug Back on the Boards

Photos or Collection

Pictures of the damage are enough to begin with, or the rug is collected free of charge anywhere in Chatham or Bryan County.

Assessment & Quote

Damage is charted, materials worked out, and a written price comes back with the alternatives beside it. Nothing begins until you have approved it.

Clean First

A rug is washed before it is mended, because fresh wool set into a soiled field will read as a bright patch within a year.

Materials Matched

New wool is matched to the original for fiber, weight and dye lot, and laid against the field for judgement before a strand of it is committed.

Hand Repair

The foundation is put back, the knots are tied in at the density of the weave around them, and the new pile is sheared to the height of the old.

Final Check & Return

Groomed, compared with the intake photographs, then carried back up the stoop and laid where it was lifted from.

Questions

Repair Questions We Hear Most

Is my rug worth repairing?
The answer comes before you are asked to commit to anything. It is worth repairing where there is value in the piece, whether that is market value or family value, and the foundation still holds strength. If the work would come close to the value of the rug, you will be told plainly rather than watch an invoice climb.
How long does rug repair take?
It follows the size of the area being rebuilt, because reweaving is hand work priced across square inches rather than hours. The quote carries a timeline with it so you are not left guessing. Soaked rugs are handled separately, since they are urgent, and they enter the process the day they arrive.
Can a rug that took tidal water be saved?
A good deal more often than it appears from where you are standing. The deciding factor is how soon the rug is flushed, not how bad the morning after looked. Brackish water needs a bath to lift the salt, the silt and the organic matter out of the foundation, and mold takes hold down there in about two days in a warm room. Ask first, before anything gets put out in the lane.
My rug came out of storage between postings. What now?
Open it out flat and look at the back before you lay it down. Months in a container or an unconditioned unit means heat and damp with no air movement, which is where both mildew in the foundation and moth grazing under the fold begin, and neither is visible from the pile side. Send photographs of the front, the back and the fold lines and we will tell you what you are looking at.
Will the repair be visible?
Once the pile is groomed back over it, a sound reweave is genuinely difficult to locate. The wool is matched on fiber, dye lot and knot count, and putting the foundation back before any pile goes in is what keeps the mended ground wearing level with the field instead of dropping below it or rising above it over the years.
Do you work with insurance claims?
Yes, and frequently. The rug is photographed as it arrives and at each stage after, and the written account of damage, treatment and value impact goes to you for the carrier.
My rug ripples and will not lie flat. Can that be fixed?
Nearly always. A rug goes wavy because the foundation has gone uneven, because a drying somewhere in its past was handled badly, or because it has spent years on a pad with nothing to it. It is washed, stretched back to square under tension as it dries, and the foundation mended everywhere it has torn or given. If the boards beneath have cupped, settle that at the same time: no rug lies flat on a floor that will not.

Send a Photograph and Get the Plain Version Back.

The assessment costs nothing and comes with a genuine opinion on whether the repair is worth making.

Rug Cleaning

The hand wash from dye test to grooming, and why a wand in the room fails on these floors.

Cleaning process

Savannah Care Notes

Garden-level damp, marsh air, pluff mud and the live oak spring: the local specifics.

Care notes

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Both legs included, throughout Chatham and Bryan counties.

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